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SPE23001 - The Heart of Southern France

Tuesday, February 27, 2024 | Axel Gert Schneider / Julia Marie Joy Hamm | Edelweiss Bicycle Tours

 

Welcome to:

The Heart of Southern France

With Joy and Axel

Our adventure starts in the lively and beautiful city Clermont Ferrand. It´s a wonderful Saturday morning and Joy and I get ready for the start of the great tour through the heart of southern France! The bikes are charged, shiny clean and perfectly arranged for the handover, the “Picassos” for every day ate ready to present and the Welcome briefing is well prepared. Anything missing? Oh.. right: our riders! But they have a good reason to be late. If you arrive at Lyon airport, like our Kiwi friends did, make sure to do a Lyon city tour to get the full experience of your trip to France. 

In the later afternoon we finally meet our happy riders! After a warm welcome we get together for the first briefing. We tell them about the highlights of our tour, French culture as well as some group riding tools. You can see excitement in everybody’s eyes! Then the group gets to see their bikes for the first time. Joy explains all the great functions. These bikes will bring you up on every mountain, promise! And no worries, you´ll learn how to use the locks quickly. 

One of our highlights on the tour will be the French cuisine for sure. We end our day with a delicious dinner close to the black cathedral of Clermont Ferrand. And tomorrow we start our adventure! We are riding south. 

If you want to know more about France or even consider to go on this tour make sure to follow our blog! It will be a blast.  The landscape, the people, the weather, the flowers, the birds, the air,  the food…

The heart of southern France is a place where you easily loose yours. 

Joy and Axel

Picassos of each day - Check
Bikes are ready to rumble - Check
Let´s start the Welcome Briefing
Handover of the bikes by Joy - the master of E-Bikes
Time to get some power for tomorrow

Day 2: Clermont-Ferrand to Salzuit

 

Day 2: Clermont-Ferrand to Salzuit 

 

Our first day starts with a beautiful train ride to Gare Brassac-les-Mines, which protects us from a lot of trafic around Clermont-Ferrand. While we enjoy the landscape passing by the big window and have great conversation and laughters, Axel shuttels our bikes to the train station and prepares them perfectly!

Then we finally get to testride our powerful E-bikes. "Turbo-mode" - check! So no need to worry. It will bring us up on every mountain! After we grabbed some musly-bars and pimped our waterbottles with magnesium and vitamis we are ready to start our our adventure through the heart of southern France!

It´s a very relaxed ride on flat roads to our first stop in Brioude. We get to see the Basilique St-Julienone of the biggest churches of the Auvergne as well as the most impressive! Due to different building materials (pink and blonde sandstones, volcanic slag, as well as limestone and marble) St-Julien shines in a blaze of colours.

We also enjoy a walk around the little village which counts around 6000 citicens. But where are all the people? We barely meet anyon while we are strolling around the sleepy streets. Before we continue our ride we fill up our batteries in a lovely restaurant, which was nice and quite... till we arrived Those salads were just fantastic! And the sence of those lovely sardines lastet till up on the hill  I heard.

Yes! The first climb awaited us after lunch. We crossed the Allier river and it went up, up, up. But no problem for our powerful group! And there´re always to great reasons that bring us up the hill: 

1. You are rewarded with the most beautiful view!

2. Every climb is followed by a decent descent

Thumbs up everyone, that was a successful fist day! Time to arrive at the hotel, hop in the pool and have a cool drink! We look forward to our next adventure tomorrow!

 

Joy and Axel

Having a good time in the train to Brassac-les-Mines. How comes I have the feeling everyone will know we belong together?
St-Julien might be breathtaking and colorful, but we stand out as well
Filling up the batteries - our batteries.
Seems like the photographer came too late
We cross the river Allier...
... not without taking pictures on the stunning bridge of course.
Our first climb of the tour. It might slow down the speed, but won't stop us for sure.
Keep smiling and stay hydrated. Very important bike-travel advice!
May I introduce you to Team-Turbo Always to be found right behind Joy. Wait! Where is Mike? Has he been taking over the tourguide again??
... what a landscape.
After the pool we meet at the bar. A great way to end a successful first riding day.
Our dessert did not only look delicious...
Making sure the tourguide gets enough energy to lead the way tomorrow

Day 3: Salzuit to Le Puy-en-Velay

 

Day 3: Salzuit to Le Puy-en-Velay

 

Where do I get a window with a view like that to take back home? I could get used to this magical szenery to be the first thing to see in the morning! Some fluffy white clouds decorate the blue sky. It´s nice and sunny outside and we don´t need a tourguide to find the breakfast room - the scent of freshly baked croissants leads us the way.

Our riding day starts with beautiful rolling hills, green meadows and this wonderful field of purple-blue flowers which looks to beautiful to be real. Every now and then we pass by happy cows and cattle and it turnes out some of our cyclists speak their language How do you call it? Cowish? Doesnt´matter, it´s great fun!

At early noon we arrive at the Chateau Lafayette, where - you guessed it - Marquis de La Fayette was born. Due to his involvement in the American War of Independence as well as the French revolution he is considered a national hero in both countries. Walking through the door, strolling around those spendidly adorned chambers seems like entering a time machine.

In Langeac, a lively town closeby, we have lunch in a wonderful garten restaurant. We need a proper break as a good climb awaits us in the afternoon. I love to see how everyone is taking care and motivationd each other! Great spirit and energy in our Kiwi-Group!

And then, finally, as promised - after every climb follows a downhill. And today we roll down for quite a while. "Wow! That was the best part of the while trip so far", I hear a delighted voice right behind me. It won´t have been our last downhill, I promise. But you´ll have to deserve them all

From the distance we can already see the collossal statue of the Virgin Mary - the Statue Notre-Dame De France. Our destination Le Puy-en-Velay can´t be very far. A hot shower and a great dinner are waiting for us. Tomorrow we have a rest day and get to discover this exciting town! 

Sleep well and have a good rest,

Joy and Axel

Waking up with a view like this! Just magical.
Ready, steady, go! We are ready to start our second riding day!
We can feel the gentle warmth of the sun on our noses, a light breeze and the fresh French country air... What a morning!
Sorry, it was impossible to catch this scenic flower field in a picture, at least we've tried.
Whenever we ride past cows a loud mooing can be heard. Not only from the animals...
Do not miss out to look in the sky occasionally!
Somehow we make people smile and wave all the time... seems like they don't see 15 happy green bikers every day.
Good job! Keep fighting.
No, one tree aint enough to hide a cow.
Just a beautiful house in the middle of nowhere...
The usual suspects chase Joy up the mountain. Team-Turbo is unstoppable!

Day 4: Rest day in Le Puy-en-Velay

 

Day 4: Restday in Le Puy-en-Velay

 

Le-Puy-en-Velay... what a magical place to be! There is so much to discover, see and do! On our rest day we split up and go on individual adventures! And as it is hard to describe the magical flair of this town, we will let the pictures talk today.

But in the end, you will have to visit Le Puy-en-Velay yourself to understand what we talk about!
Why not on our next E-bike trip through the heart of southern France?

Enjoy the colorful impressions of this lifely place!

Joy and Axel.

The perfect way to start the day. Italians would say this is anything but a cappuccino.
It tasted great, so call it whatever you like
You will find them everywhere. Pilgrims from all around the world. Le Puy-en-Valey is the starting point of one of the oldest pilgrims routes. It brings a very special spirit and friendliness to the city.
You will find window shades in 100 different colors!
And impressive wooden doors!
These are just two examples.
Love of crepe in a picture.
Caught my eye...
How's the air up there? We will find out!
You can climb up all the way to the head of the stature! Cool!
You should not be afraid of hight when climbing up to the statue!
Colorful is my favorite color!
... in case you forgot where we are right now
The famous green lentils from Le Puy, also known as poor mens caviar.
... two minutes later
The Allier ain't far. We get to eat a lot of delicious local salmon!

Day 5: Le Puy-en-Velay to Peyre en Aubrac

 

Day 5: Le Puy-en-Velay to Peyre en Aubrac

 

In the morning we look into 15 happy and motivated faces. Everyone enjoyed their rest days and we look forward to continue our tour through southern france. Our route today will lead us through the beautiful, peaceful and quite Margeride area. But before we get there, we have to get our of the city.

Our riding day starts directly with a good climb. But we are well rested and enjoy all the colorfull flowers right besight the road. A little bird is flying above our heads and sings a great song. How can a tiny animal like that make such beautiful sounds? And of course there are red-tailed hawks all around us again. They fly majestetically over the sleepy landscape. 

After the first 20km, mostly uphil, we deserve a coffe, hot chocolate and a break. But wait?? What is that dark cloud doing up there in the sky? The weather forecast was very promising this morning! That´s why we always have our rain gear with us. And hey, lett´s just call it liquid sunshine.

The rain doesn´t stop us to continue our ride to "La Bete du Gévaudan" - the famous beast of the Margeride which is told to have killed about 100 children and women in 18th century. We take out our colorful rain-jackets and are ready for the next climb! The rain is light and warm and will stop just in time.

As we arrive at the beast noone has eyes for the statue... our attention gets cought by the most delicious picnic, lovingly prepared by no one other than our dear Axel! What a unique lunchstop!

Here we go again, ready for the big day, with a great smile on the face.
Hey race machine, watch out, the speed limit is 90!
Due to a closed road we meet some local farmers and up with...
... a very interesting "cowversation"
Mostly with hand and feet, as we barely speak French, nor do they speak English.
We learn a lot about how they treat the animals. Cows and cattle in this area look all so healthy and happy! Well, look at the scenery they get to enjoy every day!
But we look pretty happy, too, don't we?
At our coffee stop in Saint-Privat-d´Allier we also meet the first statue of the beast!
Greetings go out to Jill and Brendans grandkids!
Not entirely sure who is hungrier. The little buddy behind us or our super bikers
If this is not an "axellant" picnic, I don't know what it is.
Great food with a joyful mood on a proper altitude. Check!
Bon appétit!
The rain has stopped, we are full of energy and little Miss Sunshine never stops smiling!
I heard she was a fantastic "sweeper", too!
And guess what: after the Picnic we get to roll down the mountain. That looks like fun!!
Sorry, another cow picture... but they just look too cute.
And honestly, we have seen more cows than people in these lonely, beautiful plateaus.
Don´t break the walls.
After 100km we still have enough energy for a proper stretching session with Joy!

Day 6: Peyre en Aubrac to Laguiole

 

Day 6: Peyre en Aubrac to Laguiole

 

Our morning briefing is taking part in the garage today. Outside the first raindrops start falling. The weather forecast is not very promising. At least not if you favour sunshine. But we are motivated and excited to cycle along the Aubrac plateau anyways.

If you have a favour for brown eyes this is the day to keep yours open! All around us we see the famous Aubrac cattle with their shiny big brown eyes enjoying their day day in the magnificent landscape! They don´t mind the rain and neither do we. Just the shower this morning was definitly unnessacery. And when do they finally invent wipers for glasses? Who ever has no pool in the garden, now we all have two... in our shoes

Time to warm up in a lovely coffee. Friendly french people sit all around us. Doens´t their language sound so sweet? We order café au lait and chocolat chaud (hot chocolate). They will not only give us enough energy for the second half of the day but also warm up our fingers!

And off we go again! We arrive in Laguiole at noon already. For a good reason! We want to visit the knife factory. This is the town where the world famous Laguiole knifes come from! But first: time for a long hot shower.

Well... a shower in the morning wasn't necessary.
Thank you Glen!
Give me a big hot chocolate smile!
Hot chocolate for two good reasons:
1. Giving us energy for the second half of the day
2. Warming up our fingers, it's cold outside!
Our charming and complimenting sweeper Joy!
Aka super sweeper.
French next super model. Mr Race Machine.
He will be back in the front in no time!
We arrive in Laguiole on mystical foggy streets.
With what care he brings the knife to the perfect shape!
The finishing tough...
The boys like what they see!
Voila!
The museum is really great! Whenever you are in Laguiole, you should not miss it!
For dinner we have the typical Aligot and regional sausages. So simple and so delicious!

Day 7: Laguiole to Vieillevie

 

Day 7: Laguiole to Vieillevie

 

Our first stop of the day is only two minutes away from the hotel. We visit the "Fromagerie Laguiole", a cheese factory. Here they produce the famous "Tome de Laguiole" a regional cheese of the Aubrac region. We get to see an interesting movie about the history of the company, visit the production and of course we pass by the shop on our way out and fill up Joy´s pannier with lot´s of lovely cheeses!

And then the fun beginns. Today we roll downhill most of the time, feeling the gentle breeze of the wind in our faces. When we start our tour it´s still chilly outside, but the blue cloudless sky promisses best weather. As we ride down the hills you can hear the birds sing all around us, crickets sing along and the air smells like fresh hay. We stop at a lovely cafe and get some fresh baguette which also disapear in the panniers, next to some swaet tomatoes, ham and sweets we got in the supermarket... well,the baguests do not disapear completly. 

With all those deliciacies we find our way to the confluence of the Truyère and the Lot where we will conjure up a small picnic! What a wonderful place right at the water. And this cheese we bought this morning... delicious!

It´s only a few more kilometers along the Lot till we get to our hotel in Vieillevie. Axel welcomes us there, we hand over the bikes and hop in the pool under some banana trees. Are we still in France?

The day offers one more highlight: A delicious dinner on a beautiful terrace with funny stories, many laughters as well as interesting conversations. Tomorrow the breakfast only starts at 8 as there won´t be any bread in this tiny village before that time So we can sleep a little longer or go for a morning swim.

Joy and Axel

 

 

Cheecinema.
Well, the baguette almost disappeared in the pannier
The friendly baker showed us around the bakery!
These beauties will make some people happy tomorrow!
We love our coffee and hot chocolate stops!
Someone, I don't know whom but someone fell in love with these little sweet fellows called "Canelé".
French riding.
We passed plenty beautiful tiny towns today!
Arriving at the confluence, our picnic spot!
Turn 180 degrees and you will picture this lovely chateau!
My happy picnic team!
One of the delicious cheeses we brought from the factory in... (very obviously) Laguiole.
No words needed.
Sitting together at the terrace after a beautiful successful day.
French people just know how to make your tastebuds dance.
... sooo good!

Day 8: Vieillevie to Figeac

 

Day 8: Vieillevie to Figeac

 

We roll along the Lot in the river valley. What a szenic ride. On our way we recognise many majestic villas, some right at the river, some high up the hills. Back in the days rich citicens from Paris build their summer homes out here to flee the hot and musty city. 

In the morning we visit Conques with it´s stunning Abbitiale Ste-Foy. Have you seen the stone sculptures above the entry doors? They are one of the most beautiful artwork of the middle ages.
In a small bakery we buy fresh baguette with ham and cheese and put them in our bags for the next stop. Whereas it was nice and chilly in the morning it turned really warm duriing the day! The sky is blue, the air is humid. 

Along the river we continue our ride. Our destination today is the beautiful lively town Figeac! Our souvenier baguettes from Conques we eat at a lovely little picnic spot half way to Figeac. After our lunch we get stopped one more time. Sometimes life has other plans than expacted. We arrive at the hotel in Figeac in the later afternoon and gather togehter at the terrace with a cold beer.

What a day!

Joy and Axel.

Good morning in the morning!
The bikes are ready and so are we!
There is something magical about Set-Foy. You can't see it in a picture, you'll have to experience it yourself!
no words left to say...
The light gives the building a very special touch.
These will give us power for the afternoon ride!
Hiding in the shade, because it's hot hot hot outside. Somebody turned on our heat heating on the bikes.
Is there a better way to enjoy a baguette?
And of course we try some local trays as well!
Our new local guide.
And some local friends on the way.

Day 9: Figeac to Rocamadour

 

Day 9: Figeac to Rocamandour

 

Our day starts with some tough climbs! Luckily we´ve had a delicious breakfast and these crunchy croissants were full of energy. The hills ain´t no problem for us! Up on the top we get to see a little sheep show   The fluffy white gang is on it´s way to the fields making the funniest mow sounds. 

We ride along little roads on the country side. The szenery around us is just perfect. Again we have all those diverse colorful flouwers around us. The oak trees in the forrest give us shade, as it it very warm and humid today! A cute little dear hopps out of the woods, leads our group for 7,5 seconds and disapears back in the bushes on the other side. We get to see a beautiful oldtimer on the way and find an antique store on the side of the road. Of course we have to sneak in! As we continue our ride all around us farmers sit in their tractors mowing their hay. 

For lunch we enjoy a light salad, dessert will be served at the spacial icecream store just a few minutes away from here!

 And maybe we´ve had another ice cream in Rocamadour as well... and one dessert for dinner, or two. 

It was a sweet day. Just the way Joy loves it

Looking forward to tomorrow!

Joy and Axel

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What a feeling, when you get to the top of the climb!
Little apple break in the morning. We hide in the shade as the sun takes her job very serious today!
Would you like to change vehicle, Brendan?
Enjoying the break in the shade.
Greetings to our heroes in the van!
An ice cream a day keeps the doctor away... or something like this...

Day 10: Rocamadour to Aurillac

 

Day 10: Rocamadour to Aurillac

 

How could time pass so quickly? Is this really the day before our last day? As every morning our bikes are nicely arranged right infront of the hotel. We fill up and boost our water, take our wind blockers on, it's still nice and chilly outside. Wow! Did you just see the huge eagle flying above the the old houses? What a beautiful morning! 
As we head out of the mediaval town we enjoy the last look at Rocamadour in our rear mirrors. It just looks like in a fairy-tail! 

Our day starts directly with the first climb. One of several today. With 1700 meters of elevation and again 90km this is one of our toughest days! But we are full of energy and look forward to the challenge!

In the morning the clouds protect us from the heat of the sun! We fight our way up the hills, get delighted by a downhill from time to time and distracted by the beautiful landscape all around us!

After two hours we deserve a stop in a lovely lively cafe! Before we continue our ride! The perfect time to have a look at the route in the tour book to see how far we've come already! 

The climbs never seem to end. And some of them are tough and steep. But once you've made it up to the top, you get fulfilled with the feeling of pride! YOU just made it up here! We all have, great team work, well done! 

Joy and Axel

And again we see more cattle than human
We fight our way up the mountain!
Today we challenge our group with a little team-work-task. They have passed with flying colours.
During the coffee stop we have some time to read through the tour-book. Look how far we’ve come already!
They have a good reason to gather together in the shade…
The camera is always ready.
Time for a break!
You can clearly see in his eyes he wants to go on an Edelweiss-Ebike tour as well!
Our adventurous Jill is enjoying her trip the fullest!
It's hard to capture the scenery in a picture. You can't smell the fresh hay, feel the cool breeze on your nose, hear the birds and crickets singing or capture the vastness of it. You have to experience it yourself!
Happy faces after a tough climb!
How comes you still look like a supermodel after that touch climb, Lyn?
Never forget to drink on a hot day like this!
The ladies enjoy their well deserved break in the shadow!

Day 11: Aurillac to Clermont Ferrand

 

Day 11: Aurillac to Clermont Ferrand

 

Can you believe this is our last day? How could time pass by so quickly? Yet we ain´t back in Clermont Ferrand though: We wake up in Aurillac and have the most beautifu riding day ahead of us! In the morning we roll through the valley, hay bales are lying on the big fields around us, of course we get to see cattle, cows, horses and sheep enjoing their day in the sun. When you look up you can see beautiful buildings up on the hills and on the road we are surrounded by other happy bikers.

We ride our bikes fast today, everyone is in a great mood! After an hour we stop for a coffee, gather all our energy and continue our ride up to Puy Mary, the second highest mountain in Cantal! We climb 1700hm up the summit! YOU CAN DO THIS! Of course we can! In a group like this, where each of us takes care of the other, shares some motivating words or a coockie in case of need. When we look back down the houses in the valley get smaller and smaller. What a feeling when you finally arrive at the top!

And yes, after every climb follows a downhill. Ans this one today is spectacular! It seems like a never ending story! 

Finally, after the most spectacular, szenic and successful day we arrive at the train station in Murat. Axel already awaits us with the trailer. We hand over our beloved bikes. The last km back to Clermont Ferrand we go by train. Half of the goup shares their favourite moments and enjoys the look out of the big windows, where the landscape is passing by. The other half falls alseep peacefully. 

"WE MISSED OUR STATION" Joy wakes us up. "We end up in Paris!!" 
No, just kidding But you should have seen their frightened sleepy eyes. And it took 5 seconds only till everyone was wide awake. We walk back to our hotel where the whole chapter started 10 days ago. Time for a proper hot shower and getting dressed before we meet for our final farewell dinner.

See you there

Joy and Axel 

One last time "Good morning in the morning!" The last Briefing, the last Picasso!
We will miss Axel's fabulous artwork!
Just a peaceful field with a wonderful wide view.
No day without them
Someone, I don't know whom but someone, would love to hop of the bike, run in the field and climb those hay bales. Just like back when we were kids.
The climb begins...
The steep rise might hold back the photographer from the right perspective, but it can't stop Joy from her typical big smile!
Happiness in a picture. What a great feeling!
You're right Laurie... we ain't at the peak yet, 10 more minutes to go.
As always, don't forget to look up occasionally.
You will love what you'll see!
Just another pretty house somewhere in the middle of nowhere.
Caught my. eye...
Our farewell dinner was fantastic!
Thank you France for all those delights the last 12 days!

Thank you and goodbye!

It was a wonderful time! We say THANK YOU and look forward to your next trip! Maybe in Italy, maybe in Norway, Japan or Belgium? It doesnt matter as long as you bring your happiness and curousity! 

All the best

Joy and Axel

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