Northern Spain - On the St. James Way (8JW2501)
At last, the moment has arrived: one shared goal and plenty of excitement in the air. On our first day, we gather for the welcome briefing. Christoph, with great enthusiasm, walks us through the history of Spain and gives us an inspiring overview of our route – from Santander all the way to Santiago de Compostela. After this short introduction, it’s time to hop on our bikes! With fresh energy, we set off along the coast, heading toward the Santa Magdalena peninsula. There’s so much to take in along the way: breathtaking views of the sea and beach, historic ships whispering stories from the past, and even seals catching our attention. It’s the perfect opportunity to get comfortable with our e-bikes. In the evening, we enjoy the day’s finale in style: Spanish cuisine shared in good company, paired with fine wines that perfectly capture the Iberian spirit. A wonderful beginning that leaves us eager for more – the ideal start to our adventure together.
Leaving our city hotel in Santander, we followed the bike paths out of town until the urban bustle gave way to open countryside. The scenery quickly shifted to farmland dotted with cows, horses, and even a donkey that loudly shouted at us—I-A! Our midday stop in Santillana del Mar felt like stepping back in time: the whole town is a perfectly preserved medieval gem, almost like an open-air museum. We enjoyed a proper Spanish lunch with local cider, soaking in the atmosphere before heading to the famous Altamira caves. Standing before cave art painted some 15,000 years ago, it was easy to imagine that life back then wasn’t all hardship—people had the time and creativity to decorate their world. The afternoon ride led us through rolling hills and quiet side roads, a peaceful rhythm of cycling that carried us deeper into the countryside. By evening, we reached Selores, a tiny village with just 74 inhabitants—so small it felt like we could meet everyone before bedtime. After a day of contrasts, from bustling city streets to ancient caves and finally to a sleepy hamlet, it was the perfect mix of history, nature, and a little bit of humor in the heart of Cantabria.
Right from the start, today’s stage shows its sporty side: as soon as we set off, the route climbs steadily—but with the strong support of our e-bikes, we pedal easily through the wooded heights of the Saja-Besaya Nature Park. This green, pristine region offers the perfect terrain for adventurers and nature lovers: mighty oaks, dense beech forests, and lush mountain meadows line our way, while griffon vultures, wild horses, and cows add to the charm of the natural surroundings. Early on, we realize how varied a day in the Cantabrian and Castillian mountains can be: steep climbs, flat high plateaus with grand panoramas, and small villages with wells where even the cows and horses stop to quench their thirst. There’s also a top-notch refreshment station waiting for us (thanks, Christoph!) before we continue on to the region’s traditional towns. After a demanding day, we finally reach Cervera de Pisuerga. In the evening, we’re rewarded with a dinner at a cozy bodega that leaves nothing to be desired: Spanish cuisine at its most colorful and hearty—perfect for replenishing the “burned calories” of the day. With tapas, wine, and plenty of laughter, we end a day that definitely deserves to be repeated!
A cool morning gave way to a perfectly pleasant 20 degrees — just right for us to take on 110 km by bike. The rhythm of the ride was broken up by a simple but excellent picnic and two memorable café stops that gave us just the energy we needed. Days like this remind us why cycling long distances can feel so effortless when the conditions and company align. Our route took us around three striking embalses (reservoirs), all constructed during the dictatorship of General Francisco Franco, who ruled Spain from 1939 to 1975. Franco’s regime used vast public works like dams and reservoirs to showcase progress and modernity, even while political freedoms were tightly suppressed. We passed from Vivera to Vegaquemada, ending the day at cozy campsite bungalows where a well-earned “boot beer” capped off an unforgettable ride.
After the long ride yesterday, today felt wonderfully easy: just 43 km from Vegaquemada to León. We covered the distance in about two hours, enjoying the calm pace and quiet roads. A well-earned lunch and coffee stop just before reaching our destination gave us time to pause and soak in the atmosphere before checking into the stunning five-star Parador in León. The afternoon offered something rare on a cycling trip: time for ourselves. Some wandered the historic streets, others relaxed in the grand hotel, before regrouping in the evening. Alan and Ernst led a leisurely city walk, highlighting León’s magnificent architecture, and the day ended with a fantastic dinner in the Parador — the perfect balance of cycling, culture, and comfort.
Today’s briefing takes place in a very special location: The poster presenting the new day’s route hangs on the historic and elaborately decorated facade of our Parador hotel — a truly atmospheric start! But today, the bikes stay put for a while. After a cozy breakfast, we take a taxi to Astorga, where two architectural highlights await us: Gaudí’s imposing Bishop’s Palace and the impressive cathedral. As we stroll through these historic buildings, we deeply immerse ourselves in the culture and history of the Camino. A bit later than usual, we finally hop on our e-bikes and pedal hard because there’s still a long way to go. For the first time, we experience the true essence of the Camino firsthand: Pilgrims on foot, carrying backpacks and walking sticks, pass us repeatedly on their way to Santiago de Compostela. With the help of our e-bikes, we climb the legendary Cruz de Ferro — the highest point on the Camino Francés at 1,500 meters — relatively effortlessly. Like many pilgrims before us, we leave a small stone on the large pile beneath the iron cross — a moving and symbolic moment. And just as there’s always an uphill, there’s also a downhill: A swift descent with a strong tailwind takes us down the long hairpin bends toward Ponferrada, where the impressive medieval Templar castle awaits — a real highlight for history enthusiasts and a great backdrop for a few photos. At today’s destination, Villafranca del Bierzo, we visit an authentic pilgrim’s hostel, where conversations with fellow pilgrims give us a vivid impression of life on the Camino. In the evening, we again enjoy comfort and ambiance: After a delicious dinner, we fall into a deep, satisfied sleep at the stylish Parador. This is what piloting the Camino on e-bikes can look like — full of impressions, encounters, and culture!
Another fantastic, unforgettable, and somehow very cold day in the morning. Including a cheese tasting, a very, very good lunch, and some great photo stops. Blue skies, lots of sunshine, joy in our cheeks, and power in our thighs. Keep it up!!!
Today’s e-bike stage took us from Sarria to Melide – another beautiful day along the Camino de Santiago. We started the morning with coffee in Portomarín, a town that was completely rebuilt stone by stone on a nearby hill after Franco flooded the original site to create the Belesar reservoir. The relocated Romanesque church and arches stand as a quiet testament to Galician resilience and history. Later on the route, we encountered many pilgrims – right at the spot where tourist buses drop off walkers beginning the last 100 km toward Santiago to earn their Compostela. For lunch, our Italian chef Alan prepared an amazing Galician picnic that gave us the perfect boost for the afternoon ride. In the evening, part of the group stayed in Melide for a drink, while the rest returned to the hotel for a short stretching session. Another memorable day on the Camino – filled with friendship, fresh air, and that unmistakable spirit of pilgrimage.
Our final day on the Camino de Santiago has arrived – with mixed emotions, we set off from Melide, encountering more and more pilgrims along the way, all of us on the last leg of our journey towards Santiago. The closer we get, the more excitement builds, especially when, from Monte do Gozo, we catch our first glimpse of the magnificent Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela on the horizon. It’s a moving moment, standing at the end of our journey in front of the cathedral: a blend of happiness and pride, mixed with gratitude. The many encounters and experiences of the last few days come to the forefront of our minds. In the evening, we gather for a joyful (and loud!) farewell dinner, reflecting on the journey together: Alan, as always, charmingly takes charge of choosing the dishes, and with Galician specialties, we indulge in the culinary delights of the region. The final quiz is a nail-biter – who paid close attention, who can guess the answers? Great prizes (?) await the lucky ones – but in truth, we are all winners. It’s bittersweet that our trip has come to an end. But one thing is for sure: the Camino brings people together, and a reunion is only a matter of time!
We tour guides would like to extend our heartfelt thanks to the "girls." It was (once again) sensational with you — together we discovered, experienced, and laughed so much. Thank you for your enthusiasm, your energy, and all the beautiful moments we shared. Wishing you a safe journey home, stay well, and never forget: The Camino brings friends together — and one day, we’re sure to meet again. Alan, Chris & Ernst