The Austrian lake district - Salzkammergut
Today is a special day – the day we all meet for the first time! We settle into our charming hotel, *Zum Hirschen*, our base for the days ahead. In the afternoon, we gather for the official *Welcome Briefing*: the route for the coming days is introduced, helpful tips are shared, and the excitement becomes tangible. Afterwards, we take a stroll through a summery (and slightly wet) Salzburg. The Getreidegasse reveals its quieter side – with a hint of Mozart in the air. Of course, a stop at the legendary Bosna stand is a must – a true classic! Surrounded by the colorful hustle and bustle of the Salzburg Festival, we experience the city in full cultural bloom. The evening ends with a festive dinner at the rustic *Zirkelwirt*. The food is fantastic, and the atmosphere cheerful and heartfelt – we celebrate Albert, who turned 80 just yesterday. A truly special moment in a cozy and joyful gathering. Now it’s off to bed, tired but content. Tomorrow promises a real adventure – maybe even a rainy one. But we’re ready!
Breakfast at our Hotel Hirschen was wonderful, as long as you didn't look out the window. Plan A would have been six lakes and magnificent mountains all around. But... —we need Plan B. The group is extremely flexible and curious. We decided to spend the morning dry at Red Bull's Hangar 7. Some found it very exciting, Diane thought the hot chocolate was quite good :-). We took advantage of a break on the rain radar and unpacked our bikes near Neumarkt. We arrived dry for lunch at Irrsee. It got a little wet on the way to Mondsee. But the Sound of Music church, where the Trapps' wedding took place, made up for everything. One last photo at Mondsee and then we got ready for a rather long climb. Beautiful views – if only the clouds weren't hanging so low. After a few kilometers, we reached our hotel high above Lake Fuschl and everyone was in good spirits. Plan B was Hangar 7, three lakes, a good lunch, and lots of fun. Considering the weather forecast we had in the morning, that was a pretty good result.
Rain, Pizza, and a Ray of Sunshine Today was the queen stage – the most challenging tour of the week. The weather forecast? Unfortunately, not promising at all. But we didn’t let that stop us and decided to start the day with an alternative strategy: instead of jumping straight on the bikes, we took a boat ride across the picturesque Wolfgangsee, hoping the weather would improve in the meantime. And believe it or not – luck was on our side! In St. Wolfgang, we mounted our trusty steeds and set off towards Bad Ischl. But it didn’t take long before the rain caught up with us. Maybe we were just a bit too slow? No matter. With waterproof gear and good spirits, we kept going. Al summed it up perfectly: *“I am actually enjoying this!”* – and that really captured the mood. After refueling with some delicious pizza, we tackled the final climb of the day before reaching our destination: the beautiful Traunsee and our overnight stay at *Hoisnwirt*. And then the unexpected happened: the sun came out – yes, really! We ended the day with a drink on the terrace, soaking up those hard-won rays of sunshine. We all agreed: "What a great day." Despite the rain, despite the clouds, despite the missing mountain views – or maybe even because of it?
Believe it or not - the sun is out!! The boat arrives at our hotel at 9:30 a.m. – what great service – and takes us to Ebensee. We cycle along the Traun River to Bad Ischl. The Imperial Villa and, of course, the Zauner Stollen are on the agenda. The weather is beautiful. In Bad Goisern, we turn left. We cycle along the southern shore of Lake Hallstatt. There are no cars here, only bicycles, hikers, and beautiful views of the lake. In Hallstatt, we learn what drones and Instagram can do to an idyllic little village. The history of the ossuary impresses everyone greatly. Refreshed, we cycle out of Hallstatt and master the final climb to Lake Gosau with the mighty Dachstein Mountains in the background. Humboldt described it as the most beautiful lake in the world, as the eye of God, and well, Humboldt must know.
Today we leave the picturesque village of Gosau and face our first challenge right away: the climb up to Pass Gschütt. The ascent demands some effort from our legs, but the reward comes swiftly – a long, peaceful descent through an eclectic landscape. It's beautiful here. Quiet. Authentic. Almost as if time has stood still. A special moment awaits us at the thundering Aubach waterfall – deep in the forest, all alone, far from the crowds. We pause here for a short break and recharge for the next climb. Once again, we head uphill – and once again, we are richly rewarded: we glide through idyllic Alpine scenery on roads almost entirely free of traffic. The view opens up wide, offering a breathtaking panorama of the Salzach Valley and the mountain ranges to the west. When we arrive in Bad Vigaun, Ursula is already waiting with a lovingly (and painstakingly) prepared midday snack in a blooming garden – a small feast for all the senses. We soak in the sunshine, the food, and the moment of rest. In the afternoon, we continue by car to a place steeped in history: Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest on the Kehlstein. The view from up there is spectacular – a 360° panorama of the surrounding mountains. And yet, there's a different tone in the air. The history of this place touches us deeply, brings a reflective silence, and gives the day an unexpected depth. By evening, we all agree: Another memorable and meaningful day.
Today we are taking it easy, as we are staying another night at the Hotel Langwies and don't have to pack. Sleeping in, a delicious breakfast, dry weather – all in all, a perfect start to the day. We cycle south to Hohenwerfen Castle. Meanwhile, Ernst takes care of a burst hose on the van. The 900-year-old castle towers high above the Salzach Valley. It houses the Salzburg Falconry, which offers an impressive falconry show. Afterwards, we take a tour of the castle and get an idea of what life was like in the Middle Ages. Pitch was boiled here, cannons stand ready for defense, and the prison and torture chamber send a shiver down our spines. Finally, we climb to the highest point of the castle, the bell tower. What a fantastic view! How did they get this heavy bell up here? A leisure ride back along the Salzach to our beautiful hotel finished another interesting day.
Hard to believe – it’s already our final day! This past week has flown by in no time. Once again, the weather forecast is less than ideal, but we’re not about to let a bit of rain dampen our spirits – not on our last ride! Our first stop is Hallein, where we head up to the Dürrnberg to visit the fascinating salt mine. It’s incredible to learn how salt has been extracted here for over 2,500 years – real “white gold”! In what’s become our familiar companion – steady drizzle – we continue on to Hellbrunn Palace. The stop is short due to the weather, but the baroque beauty of the place still manages to impress. Then it’s time for the final stretch: we follow the Salzach River straight into the heart of Salzburg and on to our hotel. At our farewell dinner, we look back on the week’s adventures – the routes we’ve conquered, the memories we’ve made, and the fun we’ve had along the way. Rain or shine, it’s been an unforgettable trip. And yes, we’re absolutely right to feel proud of what we’ve achieved! It was wonderful sharing this time with you – thanks for the fun, the good vibes, and such a varied and memorable tour. Ursula&Ernst